September 1st, 1999 
by Georgia I. Hesse

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THREE SPECIES:
.Botanists recognize three species of redwood trees: Sequoia sempervirens (Coast Redwood), 
Sequoiadendron giganteum (Giant Sequoia), and Metasequoia glyptostrobides (Dawn Redwood). The first two are native to California; the third was presumed extinct until 1946 when it was discovered alive in a remote region in China. The Coast Redwood is taller than its fatter Giant Sequoia cousin of the Sierra Nevada, which is also somewhat older; perhaps more than 3000 years of age compared to 2,000 years. 
...Coastal Redwoods stand shoulder to shoulder, often shutting out the sun, in six State Parks within Humboldt and Del Norte counties, the northernmost three operated in association with Redwood National Park. 
...For faddists of trivia; The generic name Sequoia memorializes a Cherokee Indian named Sequoyah, honored for inventing an alphabet for his people.		 THE NORTH NOBODY KNOWS

Cresting the long land called California, Del Norte County and its neighbor, Josephine County in Oregon, remain to most travelers an unplumbed puzzle. Up here, the best-known citizen is Bigfoot (a.k.a. Sasquatch). Ghosts of mountain men and fur traders stride through the forest dark. Trees stand tall and tales soar taller. Spirits speak in bubbling streams, marble halls dwell underground, while Zane Grey and Jack London still fish the River Rogue as it roils westward to the sea.
Del Norte begins just a swing south of the Klamath River, where statues of four golden grizzly bears guard the bridge. Near the river rises little Klamath, a phoenix of a town, last erased by floods in 1964. (Click on Itinerary, preceding page.) 
 The Requa Road turnoff north of Klamath leads to Klamath Inn, which has offered lodging and dining to wanderers since 1885. (see Itinerary.) Beyond, Klamath Overlook tops a 600-foot bluff with a stunning view and a spur walk toward the Coastal Trail that leads to Hidden Beach. Nobody will ever find you there.
One of the economic engines that keeps Del Norte County chugging is Trees of Mystery (which see, www.treesofmystery.net). Announced by a winking, 49-foot statue of Paul Bunyan flanked by his faithful Babe the Blue Ox, Trees is a one-stop souvenir supershop complete with Indian arts museum, trails through a redwood natural preserve, café, and motel (see Itinerary).
 To the north, the dense shadows of Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park are sliced by 28 miles of trails (see Itinerary).
 Crescent City (pop. 8,800 or so) serves as outpost for jaunts into Jedediah Smith State Park, Smith River National Recreation Area, and Six Rivers National Forest. Antiquity breathes in the backlighted shade of Jedediah Smith. Howland Hill Road leads to the parking lot of Stout Memorial Grove; an easy path passes old-growth trees toward mighty Stout redwood. Supernatural spirits stroll the shadows and a breeze that has been around since Charlemagne sighs in the forest.
Wind along Highway 199 along the Middle Fork of the Smith River to Gasquet and just beyond, where you settle into Patrick Creek Lodge to dine, drink, amble, and watch history roll back. (See Itinerary.)
 When you can bring yourself to mosey on, go northeast on Highway 199 to Cave Junction in Oregon’s Josephine County, northernmost reach of the Redwood Empire (which see at www.redwoodempire.com).
Discovered in 1874 by a hunter chasing his lost dog, the caves are small in extent but rich in excitement. Crystalline waters cascade over white marble, creating antic sculptures. Cave “popcorn” (it looks like eyeballs) and “moonmilk” (calcite crystals that feel like cottage cheese) result from meetings of air with water. (See Itinerary.)
 It’s about 32 miles from Cave Junction to Grants Pass (pop. 20,500), where our journey ends at Weasku Inn, a perfect place to sit on the deck with the shades of Clark Gable and Carole Lombard while toasting the gods that made the world this way. (See Itinerary.)

In season, the most fun in Grants Pass is running the waters of the Rogue by raft, kayak, driftboat, paddle boat, or the craft of Hellgate Jetboat Excursions, a bouncing scalaway of a stream. Rock walls soar 250 feet above the rapids in Hellgate Canyon, which cuts through miles of magnificent back country. 
Next month: Happy trails in Humboldt.