November 1st, 1999
by Georgia I. Hesse
Itinerary
Home
THREE SPECIES:
.Botanists
recognize three species of redwood trees: Sequoia sempervirens (Coast
Redwood),
Sequoiadendron giganteum (Giant Sequoia), and Metasequoia
glyptostrobides (Dawn Redwood). The first two are native to California;
the third was presumed extinct until 1946 when it was discovered alive
in a remote region in China. The Coast Redwood is taller than its fatter
Giant Sequoia cousin of the Sierra Nevada, which is also somewhat older;
perhaps more than 3000 years of age compared to 2,000 years.
...Coastal Redwoods stand shoulder to
shoulder, often shutting out the sun, in six State Parks within Humboldt
and Del Norte counties, the northernmost three operated in association
with Redwood National Park.
...For faddists of trivia; The generic
name Sequoia memorializes a Cherokee Indian named Sequoyah, honored
for inventing an alphabet for his people. |
CHRISTMAS IN NORTH COUNTRY
The Carson Mansion in Eureka lighted for Christmas
“CHRISTMAS IN lands of the fir tree and pine,
Christmas in lands of the palm tree and vine,
Christmas where snow peaks stand solemn and white,
Christmas where corn fields lie sunny and bright,
Everywhere, everywhere, Christmas tonight!”
When we wax nostalgic about Noël, the Yule Log, Santa Claus,
Jingle Bells, or the Herald Angels singing, our images are intensely rural.
It is impossible to be wistful for the madness of a shopping mall in December;
difficult to recreate the joy of sleighing to Grandmother’s house when
stuck in a Christmas eve frenzy on the freeway. (TV tries, St. Nick knows;
every time I see Budweiser’s Clydesdales clomping through the snow of another
age, I grow a little teary.)
At the end of the millenia, if you want to give yourself a merry
little Christmas, look north, old (and young) traditionalists! In Humboldt
and Del Norte Counties, there’s still room enough and time (and thyme).
Cuddle up before a roaring fire with a teddy bear. Help light the town
Christmas tree. Hear children’s choirs singing (sweetly, one hopes). Sing
along (don’t scream, please) with Handel’s “Messiah.” Come home for the
holidays. Celebrate an old-time California Christmas.
The Carter House in Eureka |
 |
I have merry memories of Christmas caprices in Eureka. They began
in 1983 when one John Porter, then manager of the Historic Landmark Eureka
Inn, puzzled over the problem of attracting visitors to the wild and wonderful
North Coast in winter. Following much thought (and perhaps many hot toddies),
A Coastal Christmas was born. Villages in the region joined in the party,
which today lures celebrants from around the country.
Happily, the happenings begin this year on Nov. 18 with a local
food and beverage festival at the Jacoby Storehouse in Arcata (eight miles
north of Eureka) and come to a gracious close at a black-tie gala at the
Benbow Inn in Garberville (Porter’s present pleasure place).
Other seductive sites for merry-makers are Ferndale (that famous Victorian
Village); Fortuna of the Loleta Cheese Company; McKinleyville (one of many
towns across America named for President William McKinley after his assassination
in 1901); Orick, where on Dec. 18 you can take a candlelight walk into
the ancient forests of Prairie Creek State Park; Samoa (with its 1885 lumber
camp cookhouse); Trinidad (discovered by explorer Juan Francisco de la
Bodéga on Trinity Sunday in 1775), and such hamlets as Blue Lake,
Rio Dell, and Weott. (For data on places, events, informational sites,
click on Itinerary.)
On November 19, once again the Grand Unveiling at the Eureka Inn will
reveal the stunning, 22-foot Christmas tree,always a work of whimsy that
proves nothing succeeds like excess.
On Nov. 25, Thanksgiving’s groaning board awaits at the Benbow Inn,
Garberville, and Samoa Cookhouse in Samoa.(Elbowing Eureka, it’s a great
place for hungry, noisy families.) In Trinidad, they’ll be blessing the
fishing fleet, a good excuse for spending the night at the Lost Whale Inn
(see Itinerary).
Where on earth other than Eureka can one behold the bumptious cacaphony
of the Truckers’ Christmas Convoy? A hundred huge vehicles - festooned
and brilliantly lighted, parade down the streets blaring “Jingle Bells”
on their horns.
Among ongoing events, “The Gift of the Magi” plays out its magic at
the Ferndale Repertory Theatre from Nov. 18 to Dec. 18.
In Garberville, the Benbow creates Toyland Christmas, a month-long
party beginning Dec. 1. The inn and its handsome old stone bridge are outlined
in lights. Musical events feature ancient carols, piano recitals, carolers,
and Celtic music on Saturdays. (One of my favorite pianists anywhere, Matthew
Cook, plays in the lounge most evenings. (See Itinerary
for special rates.)
During December, visitors are invited to “come home for the holidays.”
A series of open houses will be held in Eureka and five little cities:
McKinleyville, Arcata, Ferndale, Trinidad, and Fortuna. (For a brochure
of events, see Itinerary.)
Meanwhile, up north beyond the Klamath, the little duchy called
Trees of Mystery (vast souvenir shop, American Indian Museum sans pareil,
two great trails through redwood and fir stands, Motel Trees, and Forest
Cafe), Christmas Magic presents the old-fashioned message with high tech
tools: intelligent lighting systems, confetti cannons, and snow makers.
'Tis the season to be jolly! |